My Paris Guide Part 1: Restaurants, Sights and Shopping

On the Seine.
On the Seine.

Paris may be the most beautiful city in the world, but it is not the movie set many of us have come to expect. It is a big city with gritty areas, and diverse cultures and cuisines, but this is precisely what makes it special. In addition to enjoying crêpes on the street and steak frites in a picture perfect French bistro you can also find Israeli street food, Asian-French fusion and globally influenced small plates from up-and-coming Parisian chefs.

It’s true that the pace is slower here than say New York or London. Shops still close on Sundays and don’t even think about trying to purchase meat at mid-day (butchers close for a two hour lunch break). While anybody who visits the city should see the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the Musée D’Orsay, these sites are just the tip of the iceburg when it comes to what Paris has to offer culturally and architecturally. There’s nothing like coming to Paris and feeling more like a local than a tourist and hopefully this guide will help you do that.

Travelproper tip: Parisians are not inherently rude, at least no more than people in other big cities. They are, however, extremely proud of their culture and heritage and they don’t like it when Americans assume everyone in the city speaks English. A little effort goes a long way and if you can learn a few French phrases and ask “Parlez-vous anglais” (do you speak English) before launching in to English you will see much better results.

 

Bakeries

Au Petit Versailles du Marais

Two brothers own this Marais bakery along with renowned baker Christian Vabret and it’s the breads that standout—their baguette tradition won second place in Paris’s best baguette competition in 2014. The beautiful boulangerie with a glass ceiling and ornate façade dates back to the 1800s.

1 rue Tiron

Paris, 75004

+33 01 42 72 19 50

Blé Sucré

This bakery in the 12th arrondissement makes the best croissant in the city and maybe anywhere. The golden crescents are crispy on the outside but soft on the inside and slightly sweet with a faint taste of vanilla. Don’t forget about the other pastries in the case like tangy apricot tarts (when in season) and a decadent kouign-amann, a croissant layered with sugar and baked in the oven until caramelized.

7 rue Antoine Vollon

Paris, 75012

+33 01 43 40 77 73

Outside Du Pain et des Idées.
Outside Du Pain et Des Idées.

Du Pain et Des Idées

This pretty bakery near Canal Saint Martin is renowned for its Pain des Amis, a signature loaf with a dark crust and nutty aroma, but everything from the l’escargot, a pastry that seems like a cross between a croissant and a palmier, to the pain au chocolate with banana is delicious. Almost everything is made with organic flour.

34 rue Yves Toudic

Paris, 75010

+33 01 42 40 44 52

Éclair de Genie has a variety of creative éclair flavors.
Éclair de Genie has a variety of creative éclair flavors.

Éclair de Genie

Salted caramel, yuzu, and pistachio strawberry are just a few of the éclair flavors you’ll find at this creative patisserie in the Marais.

14 rue Pavée

Paris, 75004

+33 01 42 77 85 11

Ladurée

This beloved macaron makeover is well known the world over with locations in the US, China and Japan but visiting one of the candy-colored shops in Paris is still a treat. While the macarons are good, Ladurée’s croissant aux noix, a croissant filled with nuts and brown sugar, is  what you really should be ordering. There are locations throughout the city, but my favorite is in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

34 Rue Bonaparte

Paris, 75006

+33 01 44 07 64 87

Liberté bakery's famous chocolate bread.
Liberté bakery’s famous chocolate bread.

Liberté

Baker Benoît Castel has brought a new breed of boulangerie to Paris with his Liberté bakeries in the 10th, Menilmontant and Galleries Lafayette. Streamlined and modern, the bakeries feature open kitchens and architectural pastries like a lemon tart topped with teardrops of lemon curd. The chocolate bread made with cocoa powder and flecked with white chocolate pieces is addictive.

39 rue des Vinaigriers

Paris, 75010

+33 01 42 05 51 76

Pôilane

This bakery with several locations in Paris is famous for its sourdough loaf baked in a wood-fired oven but the small selection of pastries including a buttery croissant and an apple tart topped with brown sugar are delicious.

There are locations throughout the city, but the original location is here;

8 rue du Cherche-Midi

Paris, 75006

+33 01 45 48 42 59

RDT 134

This petit boulangerie in the Marais is known for Schwarzbrot, a dense and nutty German-style loaf. For a sweet treat try the white chocolate bread.

134 rue de Turenne

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 78 04 72

Sebastien Gaudard Patisserie Des Martyrs

Patissier Sebastien Gaudard’s whimsical bakery in Pigalle sells pretty pastries like a lemon tart with a sugar cookie-like crust and a beloved baba au rhum.

22 rue des Martyrs

Paris, 75009

+33 01 71 18 24 70

Du Pain et des Idées' pain des amis or "bread of friends" has a delicious thick crust.
Du Pain et des Idées’ pain des amis or “bread of friends” has a delicious thick crust.

Travelproper tip: When ordering bread at a bakery in Paris specify what type of bread you’d like– bien cuit (well done) or pas trop cuit (not too done) to sound like a local. For more on bread in Paris check out my story for Bon Appetit here.

Afternoon Tea at Le Meurice

I believe one of the best pastry chefs in Paris is Cedric Grolet the head Patissier at Le Meurice hotel. One of the best ways to experience his creations is to go to Afternoon Tea at Le Dali restaurant. It’s a splurge to be sure, but pastries like a lemon tart flecked with caviar lime are intensely flavored, and completely satisfying. During the tea service, fresh out of the oven madeleines come right to your table.

228 rue de Rivoli

Paris, 75001

+33 01 44 58 10 10

 

Breakfast/Coffee

10 Belles

You’ll probably feel more like you’re in Portland, Oregon than Paris in this sliver of a coffee shop near Canal Saint Martin. The beans come from Belleville Brulerie and pastries are more British than French and include scones and fruit-filled muffins.

10 rue de la Grange Aux Belles

Paris, 75010

+33 01 42 40 90 78

Claus

Breakfast is the only meal served at Claus in the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy eggs with smoked salmon or muesli with fromage blanc. The pastries that greet you on the way in, displayed on various cake platters beneath a blackboard, are quite good including a bright green pistachio financier with raspberries. It’s a good idea to make a reservation here, especially on weekends.

14 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau

Paris, 75001

+33 01 42 33 55 10

Cream Cafe

Cream Cafe is owned by the same people as 10 Belles, but located in Belleville. The small menu is scrawled on a mirror above the coffee bar and the space’s wooden tables and benches are a great place to chat or do a bit of work.

50 rue de Belleville

Paris, 75020

+33 09 83 66 58 43

Fondation Café

This bare bones coffee shop in the Upper Marais also serves Belleville brulerie coffee and a small selection of pastries and granola from cult favorite bakery Emperor Norton.

16 rue Dupetit Thouars

Paris, 75003

Hollybelly

Pancakes, beans and a crispy hashbrown are just a few of the things you’ll find at this lively breakfast spot in the 10th arrondissement. The interior is a modern take on a diner with booths and a large wooden communal table. The hip, bilingual wait staff is extremely friendly.

16 rue Lucien Sampaix

Paris, 75010

Honor is an outdoor cafe and coffee bar.
Honor is located in a beautiful courtyard off rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Honor Cafe

Tucked in a courtyard off fashionable Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré lays Honor an outdoor coffee bar owned by an English/Australian couple with years of experience in the specialty coffee industry. The streamlined coffee kiosk, designed by Studio Desuant Bone, is beautiful. Panels can be removed to create different configurations depending on the season and customer seating has been cleverly integrated with a coffee bar in the front and raised communal seating hidden in the back. If you need something to nibble on Honor has that covered as well with pastries by Broken Biscuits and soups and sandwiches from Coutume. Afterwards shop through the Comme des Garcons flagship shop at the back of the courtyard.

54 rue du Faubourg St. Honoré

Paris, 75008

The lemon pie at
The lemon pie at Le Loir Dans la Théière is a must order.

Le Loir Dans la Théière

To eat at this popular brunch spot in the Marais, you’ll probably have to wait in line but it moves quickly. Once you’ve snagged a spot enjoy a slice of quiche followed by the lemon pie topped with fluffy meringue.

3 rue des Rosiers

Paris, 75004

+33 01 42 72 90 61

Tartes Kluger

This café specializes in sweet and savory tarts. The savory ones are similar to a quiche and are filled with eggs and various ingredients like roasted vegetables.

15 rue Trousseau

Paris, 75011

+33 01 53 01 53 53

 

Lunch

Bob's Bakeshop is the place to go for American pastries and authentic New York bagels.
Bob’s Bakeshop is the place to go for American pastries and authentic New York bagels.

Bob’s Kitchen, Bob’s Bakeshop, and Bob’s Juice Bar

I love Bob’s. Really that would be Marc Grossman, the man behind, Bob’s Kitchen Bob’s Bake Shop and Bob’s Juice Bar. These are the places I go when I want something healthy and a little piece of home. At Bob’s Kitchen you’ll find veggie stew a sort of rice bowl with roasted vegetables, greens and the sauce of your choice—I love the sauté which is a peanut and coconut milk sauce but you really can’t go wrong with any of the choices. Here you can also pick up smoothies, bagel sandwiches and juices—the green juice loaded with every green vegetables, fruit and herbs is refreshing and incredibly healthy. At the Juice Bar you’ll find a more limited menu but the same great juices and smoothies and at Bob’s Bake Shop you can enjoy home-made bagels like poppy seed and sesame topped with organic Scottish salmon and cream cheese or my favorite hummus with roasted carrots and arugula. This is also the place to go for American desserts in Paris—pecan pie, fruit crumble, and brownies.

Bob’s Juice Bar

15 rue Lucien Sampaix

Paris, 75010

+33 09 50 06 36 18

Bob’s Kitchen

74 rue des Gravilliers

Paris, 75003

+33 09 52 55 11 66

Bob’s Bakeshop

Halle Pajol

12 Esplanade Nathalie Sarraute

Paris, 75018

Briezh Café

Who makes the best crêpes in Paris is up for debate, but if I had to pick one I’d probably pick Breizh Café in the Marais. The authentic Brittany-style crêpes–made with buckwheat flour—are paper thin and crispy on the edges. The restaurant has a varied selection of toppings, from traditional ham, egg and cheese to more innovative daily specials like a crêpe topped with Roquefort, arugula and honey. I recommend making reservations for lunch and dinner on the weekends.

109 rue Vieille du Temple

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 72 13 77

Open faced sandwiches at Café Sudeois.
Open faced sandwiches at Café Sudeois.

Café Pinson

I love this vegetarian/vegan café because it doesn’t feel like you’re giving up anything. The décor is hip, the food is fresh and flavorful and they even have vegan desserts and decadent hot chocolate made with hazelnut milk.

6 rue du Forez

Paris, 75003

+33 01 45 23 59 42

Café Sudeois

The delightful café off a courtyard in the Swedish Institute serves open-faced sandwiches and a cinnamon roll with cardamom.

11 rue Payenne

Paris, 75003

+33 01 44 78 80 11

Frenchie-to-Go

This is another place to go if you want to feel like you’re in New York. The hipster hangout serves breakfast and lunch. You order at a counter and hope there’s space at one of the high top communal tables. Standouts on the menu include the pulled pork sandwich, gazpacho (when in season) and a remarkably authentic lobster roll.

9 rue du Nil

Paris, 75002

+33 01 40 26 23 43

L’As du Falafel

When you visit rue des Rosiers in the Marais you must get a falafel at this legendary spot. Don’t be put off by the carnival like atmosphere, on busy days you pay for a ticket and then wait in line, the food really is good. The vegetarian falafel comes filled with plump falafels, marinated eggplant, hummus, shredded carrot and cucumbers and tahini. L’As du Falafel is closed on Saturday and lines are longest on Sunday.

32-34 rue des Rosiers

Paris, 75004

+33 01 48 87 63 60

La Pointe du Grouin

This funky tapas bar and sandwich shop has its own currency. You put money in a machine that spits out grouins or coins that you use to pay for your meal. Owner Thierry Breton is from Brittany and you’ll find that style of food here like lobster salad and seafood stew. Sandwiches including saucisson sec with butter on house made bread make a cheap and satisfying meal.

8 rue du Belzunce

Paris, 75010

 

Dinner

Travelproper tip: While more and more walk-in only restaurants are opening in Paris, reservations are still the preferred method of dining, so if you have your heart set on eating at a certain restaurant make sure you make a reservation before you arrive. Open tables don’t necessarily mean open spaces as they may very well be spoken for for the evening. Some restaurants will take reservations weeks in advance while others, like Septime, open reservations two weeks to the day before dining. Lafourchette.com, the Open Table of France, can be a great way to make reservations at some restaurants.

 

Quick and Casual

 

Candelaria has authentic tacos that change based on what's in season.
Candelaria has authentic tacos that change based on what’s in season.

Candelaria

Paris’s best Mexican restaurant serves excellent guacamole, black beans and seasonal tacos that change weekly like pork carnitas. Usually there’s a veggie option and the restaurant now has a great brunch offering huevos rancheros on weekends. The back room of the restaurant turns into a speakeasy style bar at night where mixologists pour some of the best drinks in the city mostly made with mescal and tequila.

52 rue de Saintonge

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 74 41 28

Chez Imogene

This excellent crêpery serves true Brittany style crêpes. While they have traditional toppings like egg and ham I love the more creative crêpes like the Forestier with carrot puree, mushrooms, and tomatoes.

25 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud

Paris, 75011

+33 01 48 07 14 59

L’Avant Comptoir

The wine bar from the chef of Comptoir is standing room only, but it’s a fun place to grab a French tapas style dinner, a crêpe or a charcuterie plate. Creative dishes include a savory waffle topped with ham and artichoke and a blood sausage macaron.

9 Carrefour de l’Odeon

Paris, 75006

The dinner rush at Miznon.
The dinner rush at Miznon.

Miznon

This lively Israeli street food restaurant feels a bit like a party especially in summer when people waiting for to-go orders, or a table, spill out onto the street. It’s very casual. You order at the counter, but the food—a whole head of roasted cauliflower, sweet potatoes blistered in the oven and a delicious boeuf bourguignon pita with carrots and mustard is some of my favorite in Paris.

22 rue des Ecouffes

Paris, 75004

+33 01 42 74 83 58

Paris Hanoi

This Vietnamese restaurant always has a line because the prices are extremely reasonable, the portions ample and the food is fresh and delicious. Luckily the line moves quickly, as people are ushered in to sit at communal tables and dig into standout dishes like a rice bowl the caramelized pork.

74 rue de Charonne

Paris, 75011

+33 01 47 00 47 59

Pink Flamingo

This casual pizza place with multiple locations in Paris serves creative pies like the Ché with plantains and pulled pork. If you go grab your pie at in the 10th take it and devour it on Canal Saint Martin.

Multiple locations throughout the city, but I like the one in the 3e;

105 rue Vieille du Temple

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 71 28 20

 

Prepare to wait

Buvette Gastrothèque

Yes, this is the second location of the New York favorite and, while it is owned by an American, I still think it’s a fine place to go for French fare like Coq au Vin. Buvette also serves excellent tartines (open-faced sandwiches), salads and charcuterie and desserts are displayed beautifully on the bar.

28 rue Henry Monnier

Paris, 75009

+33 01 44 63 41 71

Clamato

This tapas-style seafood restaurant from the team behind Septime has become quite popular (expect to wait on weekends) and everything is excellent and meant to be shared. The menu changes constantly based on what is coming off the boat but try oysters, ceviche and scallops with bone marrow if you’re lucky.

80 rue de Charonne

Paris, 75011

+33 01 43 72 74 53

Freddy’s

This French tapas-bar serves excellent small plates like finely sliced chorizo, smoky fish pate and grilled meats from pintade (guinea fowl) to duck hearts. There is limited counter seating so you may eat standing up but that’s part of the fun at this lively spot.

54 rue de Seine

Paris, 75006

Grazie

This glass fronted restaurant and bar serves the best Neapolitan-style pizza in Paris in my opinion. Toppings include buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto and arugula and pies are cooked in a wood-fired oven. It’s best to call ahead for a table, but the bar is reserved for walk-ins. Cocktails here are also good.

91 Boulevard Beaumarchais

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 78 11 96

Ibaji

Asian food offerings continue to expand in Paris and this Korean restaurant in the Upper Marais is a welcome addition. The artsy interior is covered in white tile with a colorful light installation and seating is at one large communal table or at a counter. The bibimbap has the right amount of heat.

13 rue du Vertbois

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 71 67 81

Lazare

Located in the Lazare train station, the atmosphere is a bit mall-like but most seem to agree this a great place to find the brasserie-style fare that is disappearing from Paris. The food is comforting and satisfying and the restaurant is modern. While you should reserve a table in advance there is a large oval bar for walk-ins.

Parvis de la Gare Saint-Lazare, rue Intérieure

Paris, 75008

+33 01 44 90 80 80

Le Dauphin

Creative French fare served tapas style is the best way to describe Inaki Aiziparte’s casual wine bar. Everything is packed full of flavor from Iberico pork tartare to “fish and chips” served with whisper thin, vinegary potatoes and lightly battered fish with a dab of lemony tartar sauce. The lemon tart is a must for dessert.

131 Avenue Parmentier

Paris, 75011

+33 01 55 28 78 88

Les Cocottes

Le cocotte means casserole dish and most everything here is cooked in such a vessel. Expect warming and hearty French comfort food like braised lamb with spices and carrots. Wines are inexpensive and served in carafes and the restaurant serves an excellent salad Lyonnaise with a poached egg, frisée and lardons.

135 rue Saint-Dominique

Paris, 75007

Nanashi

The entrance to this restaurant, popular amongst the fashion set, resembles a fruit and vegetable market and that should give you confidence the ingredients used here are all incredibly fresh. The food is Japanese-French fusion so think foie gras with miso sauce and soba noodles with thinly sliced duck breast.

57 rue Charlot

Paris, 75003

+33 09 60 00 25 59

Pierre Sang takes no reservations, but arrive early to snag a spot.
Pierre Sang doesn’t take reservations, but arrive early or you’ll have to wait.

Pierre Sang

Former Top Chef France contestant Pierre Sang has two great restaurants one on rue Oberkampf and one just down the street on rue Gambey. Both offer a nightly changing tasting menu of unique and tasty Korean influenced French dishes, however they have slightly different looks and vibes. The corner restaurant is a sleek, modern space with a long, stainless steel communal table. The newer restaurant feels more like a wine bar with red brick walls lined with wine bottles. Both restaurants are lively and standout dishes I’ve enjoyed include duck with white beans, roasted carrots and chili pepper miso sauce and Cantal cheese with yuzu jam.

55 rue Oberkampf

6 rue Gambey

Paris, 75011

+33 09 67 31 96 80

 

Mark your calendars and make reservations

Abri

Abri, a small restaurant in the 10th, is notoriously hard to get into, but if you can manage to snag a reservation you’ll be rewarded with an affordable set dinner menu that includes three starters, a fish and meat course as well as dessert. If you don’t want to bother with a reservation just go for lunch on a Saturday or a Monday when the restaurant serves a legendary sandwich filled with breaded pork, egg, Mimolette cheese and cabbage.

92 rue du Faubourg Poissonière

Paris, 75010

+33 01 83 97 00 00

Au Passage

This funky wine bar and restaurant is where all the cool kids eat and while the space is nothing to write home about—think mismatched tables and chairs and a chalkboard menu, the highly seasonal and flavorful small plates are not to be missed. Dishes have included roasted carrots with dukkah, langoustines with oysters and rocket, and tender octopus with romanesco.

1 bis Passage Saint-Sébastien

Paris, 75011

+33 01 43 55 07 52

Chateaubriand

The restaurant that arguably launched the “Bistronomie” movement in Paris is still a standout thanks to Chef Inaki Aizaparte’s use of only the best ingredients in creative dishes like liquid ceviche. The atmosphere is sparse French bistro with bistro tables and chairs and a tiled floor. The young, no nonsense wait staff keep it feeling hip.

129 Avenue Parmentier

Paris, 75011

+33 01 43 57 45 95

Frenchie

Gregory Marchand’s bistro tucked down a cobblestone street in the 2nd has drawn much acclaim (and reservations that must be booked way in advance as a result) but for good reason. The food is French light with influences throughout the world—Marchand has worked in Spain, New York and Hong Kong and even with Jamie Oliver in London.

5 rue du Nil

Paris, 75002

+33 01 40 39 96 19

La Bauhinia

The Shangri-La hotel is a stunning mix of French empire period architecture and subtle Asian design. The hotel’s La Bahinia restaurant, located under a glass dome is gorgeous and serves a delicious menu of both French and Southeast Asian dishes. The prices are high, but the food is elegant and satisfying.

10 Avenue d’Iéna

Paris, 75116

+33 01 53 67 19 91

Le Cinq

If you go to this 3-Michelin star spot in the luxurious George V hotel be prepared to spend 300 euros plus per person, but you’ll be rewarded with excellent service and inventive cuisine using the world’s best ingredients like blue lobster with grapefruit coulis, cuttlefish pasta and butter sauce.

31 Avenue George V

Paris, 75008

+33 01 49 52 71 54

Le Coq Rico

Seasonal volaille (poultry) is the specialty at this restaurant in Montmartre. The atmosphere is more grown up then happening but the poulet Bresse (a French breed of chicken with its own AOC) with French fries and a green salad might be the perfect meal.

98 rue Lepic

Paris, 75018

+33 01 42 59 82 89

Le Pantruche

This market driven bistro in Pigalle always delivers fresh flavorful dishes and is a great choice for lunch or dinner. I had a poached egg with octopus and pickled cabbage once that blew my mind. The menu changes every day and I like the simple Parisan bistro-style ambience.

3 rue Victor Masse

Paris, 75009

+33 01 48 78 55 60

Le Servan

This pretty bistro in the 11th is a great choice if you haven’t been able to plan reservations weeks or months in advance. Still call a few days ahead and enjoy the fine French food with some global influences by chef Tatiana Levha who worked at L’Arpege.

32 rue Saint-Maur

Paris, 75011

+33 01 55 28 51 82

Le Severo

Many claim this restaurant in the 14th arrondissement has the best steak frites in Paris. It’s a small and intimate space with red leather booths. It’s nothing fancy, but the dry aged beef is excellent.

8 rue des Plantes

Paris, 75014

+33 01 45 40 40 91

Semilla

This bistro in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is one of my favorites. Dishes range from the traditional roast duck for two, to creative sea bream marinated in red wine, but everything I’ve had here has been delicious.

54 rue de Seine

Paris 75006

+33 01 43 54 34 50

Septime is unassuming from the outside, but it's one of the hardest to get reservations in Paris.
Septime is unassuming from the outside, but it’s one of the hardest to get reservations in Paris.

Septime

This is one of the hardest to snag tables in Paris. Bertrand Grebaut’s cooking is undeniably French, most of the ingredients come from in or near Paris and the atmosphere is just cool. Read my interview with Grebaut here.

80 rue de Charonne

Paris, 75011

+33 01 43 67 38 29

Verjus

Verjus is owned by the American couple who were behind the intensely popular Hidden Kitchen Supper Club. While that shuttered, they now have Verjus, a lovely restaurant behind the Palais Royal great for special occasions, a wine bar and Ellsworth a more casual restaurant serving corn-dogs with house made rabbit sausage and an excellent brunch on Sunday.

52 rue de Richelieu

Paris, 75001

+33 01 42 97 54 40

Yam t’Cha

When you enter this restaurant on Rue Saint Honoré you instantly feel at ease thanks to the zen-aesthetic, tranquil inner courtyard and pale golden walls. Chef Adeline Grattard is extremely talented and dishes include wok fried langoustines with duck egg, lettuce cream and yellow tomatoes. The excellent wine pairings are especially enjoyable thanks to delicate wine glasses by Zalto Denmark.

121 rue St. Honoré

Paris, 75001

+33 01 40 26 08 07

 

A few great French bistros

Allard

Alain Ducasse’s beautiful bistro in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a great place to go if you want white tablecloths, black-vested waiters and to try the famed Challan duck with green olives.

41 rue Saint-Andre des Arts

Paris, 75006

+33 01 58 00 23 42

Bistro Paul Bert

This quintessential bistro in the 11th seems like the type of restaurant you’d expect to see in a Woody Allen movie: characters abound. The tables are packed tightly together and the cote-de-boeuf for two with golden frites is one of the best.

13 rue Paul Bert

Paris, 75011

+33 01 43 72 24 01

The historic Saint Regis cafe is one of the most atmospheric in the city.
The historic Saint Regis cafe is one of the most atmospheric in the city.

Café Saint-Régis

This historic bistro on the Îli-Saint Louis is one of the city’s prettiest with white subway tile walls, black and white checkered floor, and floor to ceiling windows that open up to the outside. The food is so-so, but the atmosphere is so great it’s worth going for a glass of rosé or absinthe-laced cocktail.

6 rue Jean de Bellay

Paris, 75004

+33 01 43 54 59 41

Chez L’Ami Jean

This Basque restaurant near the Eiffel Tower is loud and busy. Portion sizes of dishes like veal with pureed potatoes and riz au lait (rice pudding) with caramelized pralines are enormous and rich so consider fasting a bit beforehand. Dining here is a memorable and fun experience.

27 rue Malar

Paris, 75007

+33 01 47 05 86 89

Chez Josphine is one of the only places in Paris that still makes boeuf bourguignon the right way.
Josphine Chez Dumonet is one of the only places in Paris that still makes boeuf bourguignon the right way.

Josephine Chez Dumonet

This beautiful French bistro in the 6th is known for boeuf bourguignon and it is delicious, but the duck confit and the pigeon with crispy potato cake are also good. Get the millefeuille for dessert!

117 rue du Cherche-Midi

Paris, 75006

+33 01 45 48 52 40

La Bourse et La Vie

This new restaurant in the 2nd from acclaimed American chef Daniel Rose is exactly what Paris needs, an upscale bistro where you can sample the traditional French dishes you dream of eating but that are no longer easy to find like pot-au-feu, duck à l’orange, truly great steak frites and decadent chocolate mousse. Don’t be put off by the fact that it’s an American chef. Rose has been living in Paris for years and the dishes are incredibly authentic. I also saw the Barefoot Contessa herself, Ina Garten, eating here if that tells you anything. It’s a small restaurant so definitely make reservations.

12 rue Vivienne

Paris, 75002

+33 01 42 60 08 83

Le Baratin

This restaurant in artsy Belleville is a favorite of many of the best chefs in Paris. It’s a casual, beatnik type place. Daily changing dishes are scribbled on a chalkboard, and the home cooking by Raquel Carina is flawless. I had mussels in an aromatic sauce of white wine and lemon grass and rich oxtail stew on my last visit.

3 rue Jouye-Rouve

Paris, 75020

+33 01 43 49 39 70

 

Wine Bars

Frenchie Bar à Vins

Frenchie is a tough reservation to snag, and if you haven’t planned ahead just go to Marchand’s excellent walk-in only wine bar across the street. The cozy space with wood beamed ceilings and brick walls gets crowded so try to arrive when it opens at 7pm. Everything is excellent and the menu changes frequently, but if the blue lobster roll is on the menu don’t hesitate.

6 rue du Nil

Paris, 75002

+33 01 40 39 96 19

La Buvette

This natural wine shop in the 11th arrondissement stocks a very interesting mix of wines from France and Europe. It’s also a beautiful space with a mosaic floor and white tile walls. Technically a wine shop not a wine bar you can consume wine there but only with the purchase of food. This is not a bad thing. The small plates–saucisse seche, haricots blancs, and ricotta with quince jam are yummy.

67 rue Saint-Maur

Paris, 75011

+33 09 83 56 94 11

Le Garde Robe

Le Garde Robe is a fun and funky wine bar that can get rowdy, but it’s a great place to go for a light dinner comprised of charcuterie like smoked pork filet mignon and, of course, amazing bottles of natural wine.

41 rue de L’Arbre Sec

Paris, 75001

+33 01 49 26 90 60

Septime la Cave is located in a former shoe cobbler shop.
Septime la Cave is located in a former shoe cobbler shop.

Septime La Cave

This former shoe cobbler shop is an absolute must if you’re waiting for a table at Clamato or want to have a pre-dinner drink before your dine at Septime. It’s also a worthy stop in its own right. The natural wines from cult favorite makers like L’Anglore and Bobinet are unique and tasty and the small plates on offer like house-made ricotta with anchovies are delicious!

3 rue Basfroi

Paris, 75011

+33 01 43 67 14 87

Verjus Bar à Vins

This lovely wine bar below Verjus restaurant is intimate and a great place to go for a light dinner, provided you can snag space at the small bar. Cheese and charcuterie plates include chorizo with marinated turnips and 30 month comté with bergamot jam.

42 rue de Montpensier

Paris, 75001

+33 01 42 97 54 40

 

Bars

Bespoke

This cocktail bar and restaurant in the 11th makes some of the best cocktails in the city. It’s also a great spot for a casual meal of pulled pork sliders and French fries.

3 rue Oberkampf

Paris, 75011

+33 01 58 30 88 59

La Fine Mousse

The craft beer craze has hit Paris and this corner bar with 20 taps is my favorite place to sample it. At La Fine Mousse you’ll find excellent artisanal beers from France and Belgium. They also have a restaurant across the street that specializes in food and beer pairings.

6 Avenue Jean Aicard

Paris, 75011

+33 01 48 06 40 94

Le Bar Kléber and L’Oiseau Blanc

Cocktail prices can be quite staggering in Paris (particularly at the Palace hotels) and it’s no different at the Peninsula Paris where they can be 20-30 euros a pop. Unlike some of the other hotels, the cocktails served at the hotel’s two bars—the oak-paneled Le Bar Kléber (where the Paris peace accords were signed ending the Vietnam War in 1971) and L’Oiseau Blanc, a rooftop bar with an impressive view of the Eiffel Tower, are worth the splurge. Creations are inventive, carefully crafted and delicious. The bourbon-based Le Kléber cocktail served in Bar Klébar is one of my favorite cocktails in the city.

19 Avenue Kléber

Paris, 75116

+33 01 58 12 28 88

Le Candelaria

This speakeasy style bar in the back of Candelaria Mexican restaurant has some of the best bartenders in Paris and the mostly tequila based cocktails are excellent. I love the slightly spicy Guepe Verde with jalapeno, tequila blanco, cucumber, agave and lime.

52 rue de Saintonge

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 74 41 28

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste is another great bar and restaurant from the same people behind Candelaria. The cocktails are a great reason to visit but also try the oysters and the insanely good Asian-influenced deviled eggs.

1 rue Commines

Paris, 75003

Le Perchoir

Sceney rooftop bars do exist in Paris and, besides L’Oiseau Blanc, I like Le Perchoir in the 11th. The bar has incredible views of the Paris rooftops and Sacré Coeur and an almost Bali-like design aesthetic. There’s one downside. Because it’s outdoors people are allowed to smoke there so don’t expect too much fresh air. There’s also a location in the Marais on top of the BHV.

14 rue Crespin du Gast

Paris, 75011

+33 01 48 06 18 48

 

Museums

Travelproper tip: If you’re traveling to Paris during the fall or winter try to take advantage of Free First Sundays when museums throughout the city like the Louvre and the Orangerie are free the first Sunday of the month.

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This Frank Gehry designed structure in the Bois de Boulogne is as much a work of art as the contemporary art collection it’s meant to house. With the purchase of a ticket you’ll be able to explore the multilevel structure that resembles sails billowing in the wind. Before your trip to Paris, check the website to see if there’s going to be a concert in the colorful auditorium with a water feature as a backdrop.

9 Avenue de Mahatma Gandhi

Bois de Boulogne

Paris, 75116

+33 01 40 69 96 00

The Napoleon III Apartments at the Louvre.
The Napoleon III Apartments at the Louvre.

Louvre

Yes it’s enormous and overwhelming, but the Louvre simply may be the best museum in the world. Ofcourse, you have to see the famous things like the Mona Lisa, and the Winged Victory of Samothrace (for more on how to do this efficiently see my husband’s story here), but try to make it to the Decorative Arts Wing, the opulent Napoleon III apartments and the basement where you can see remnants of the Medieval fortress that originally occupied the site.

Paris, 75001

+33 01 40 20 50 50

Musée Carnavalet

This free museum in the Marais is an excellent place to go to learn about the history of Paris and it’s housed within two of the Marais’ most beautiful mansions the Hotel de Carnavalet and the Hotel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau.

16 rue des Francs Bourgeois

Paris, 75003

+33 01 44 59 58 58

Musée Des Arts Decoratifs

The Decorative Arts Museum in the Louvre complex sees a fraction of the visitors that the famed museum gets so it’s delightfully uncrowded. Jewelry lovers will appreciate the jewelry collection that extends from the middle ages to the present day. Many of Paris’s most famous jewelers like Lalique and Templier are represented. For more on jewelry in Paris read my story for HiP Paris here.

107 rue de Rivoli

Paris, 75001

+33 01 44 55 57 50

Musée de Montmartre

This lovely little museum is located on a quite street in Montmartre away from the touristy hubbub. The museum is comprised of the 17th century Bel Air House where you’ll find a room dedicated to the CanCan as well as paintings and posters by Toulouse-Lautrec and Modigliani, three gardens and the restored studio-apartment where Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo once lived and painted.

12 rue Cortot

Paris, 75018

+33 01 49 25 89 39

Musée D’Orsay

Many people say this is their favorite museum in Paris and when you visit it’s easy to understand why it’s a crowd pleaser. The building, a former Beaux-Arts train station is stunning and the collection made up of mainly impressionist and post-impressionist works is easy to appreciate. Famous works housed in the museum include Van Gogh’s Starry Night Over the Rhone and Renoir’s Bal du Moulin de la Galette.

1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur

Paris, 75007

+33 01 40 49 48 14

Musée National Picasso

Picasso’s personal collection is housed in the gorgeous Hôtel Salé, a mansion built in the 1600’s by a wealthy salt-tax collector. The collection includes over 5,000 works including Picasso’s magnetic red-finger nailed portrait of Dora Maar as well as works by other artists like Degas, Matisse and Renoir.

5 rue de Thorigny

Paris, 75003

+33 01 85 56 00 36

Orangerie

This museum in the Tuileries Gardens was redesigned in 1922 to be the permanent home of Monet’s Water Lilies canvases. Housed in two oval rooms, it’s fun to see how the season and time of day of day affected the colors and light in the 8 panels. The small museum also has works by Cezanne, Matisse and Utrillo.

Jardin des Tuileries

Paris, 75001

+33 01 44 77 80 07

 

Sights and Parks

Most French Monarch's remains are entombed in the Basilica of Saint Denis.
Most French Monarch’s remains are entombed in the Basilica of Saint Denis.

Basilica of Saint Denis

You can pay homage to most of France’s Kings and Queens by visiting the Basilica of Saint Denis, a medieval abbey in a northern suburb of Paris. All but three French monarchs remains are interred there including Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI.

1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur

Saint-Denis 93200

+33 01 48 09 83 54

Bois de Vincennes

These former hunting grounds are now a massive park on the east end of Paris that are home to the Château de Vincennes, an equestrian center, running trails and a lake.

Get off metro line 1 at Château de Vincennes

Catacombs

I recommend visiting the eery catacombs of Paris at least once. Considered the largest grave in the world, the ossuary contains the remains of six million people. The bones are neatly stacked and line both sides of the tunnels (former limestone mines) that seem to go on for miles. I recommend visiting in fall or winter when the lines or nowhere near as long as they get during the busy spring and summer travel season.

1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy

Paris, 75014

+33 01 43 22 47 63

Chateau de Vincennes has a beautiful church.
Château de Vincennes has a beautiful church.

Château de Vincennes

Château de Vincennes is one of the best preserved Medieval fortresses in Europe and was originally built for Louis VII as a hunting lodge in the 1100s. The imposing donjon you see today was built in the 14th century by Philip VI. The castle became a prison during the 18th century and housed many famous prisoners including the Marquis de Sade. To get there just take the metro line 1 all the way to the Château de Vincennes stop.

Avenue de Paris

Vincennes, 94300

+33 01 43 28 15 48

Conciergie

The Conciergie is the oldest remaining part of the Palais de la Cité, the first royal palace in the French capital. It was used as a prison during the French revolution and you can see where Queen Marie-Antoinette was most likely held before her execution.

2 Boulevard du Palais

Paris, 75001

+33 01 53 40 60 80

Eiffel Tower

For a bit of exercise, I recommend paying to walk up the stairs to the 2nd floor of the Eiffel Tower. You’ll get to see the new partly transparent first floor and enjoy the spectacular views from the second floor balcony. If you really want to go all the way to the top you can buy another ticket to take the elevator from there.

Champ de Mars

5 Avenue Anatole France

Paris, 75007

Luxembourg Gardens

This beautiful manicured park is an oasis of green on the left bank. It’s a prime place to picnic, take a stroll or play tennis if you reserve one of the courts ahead of time.

6th arrondissement

+33 01 42 34 23 62

Palais Garnier

Paris’s stunning Opera House is a site to behold and it’s equally beautiful on the inside. You can go on a tour, but the best way to take it all in is to get tickets to a ballet or opera. Follow the website and book tickets right when they’re released. Loge seats are not expensive, but they go quick.

8 rue Scribe

Paris, 75009

+33 01 71 25 24 23

Panthéon

This former church in the Latin Quarter now functions as a mausoleum housing the remains of many of France’s most famous citizens including Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Alexandre Dumas.

Place du Panthéon

Paris, 75005

+33 01 44 32 18 00

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Parc des Buttes Chaumont is my favorite park in Paris. It’s located on a hillside in Belleville and offers incredible views of the city and Montmartre. It’s a great place to run because there are wide paths and hills. There are also great surprises around every corner like a grotto with a waterfall and a bar called Rosa Bonheur that fills on weekends.

1 rue Botzaris

Paris, 75019

+33 01 48 03 83 10

Promenade Plantée

This elevated park on a former railway line in the 12th arrondissement is another great place to run. It goes for 4.7 kilometers, but if you really want a long run, after it ends, you can continue to the Bois de Vincennes.

Running is actually incredibly popular right now in Paris. For more on how you can get involved take a look at my story for HiP Paris here.

44 rue de Lyon

Paris, 75012

Sainte-Chapelle

This jewel-box of a church was built by King Louis IX or Saint Louis during the 13th century to house the Crown of Thorns. The fact that the delicate structure, with some of the most beautiful stained glass in the world, survived all these years is quite miraculous.

8 Boulevard du Palais

Paris, 75001

+33 01 53 40 60 80

 

Shopping

American Vintage

American Vintage is my favorite place in Paris for basics like soft t-shirts, tanks and shorts. Don’t let the name fool you. It’s a French company and clothes are made in Portugal. There are locations throughout Paris, but I like the store in the Upper Marais.

113 rue Vieille du Temple

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 74 80 87

Galerie Vivienne

This covered passage in the 2nd arrondissement with glass ceiling and mosaic floor is absolutely gorgeous. It’s also home to a wine shop, a book shop and Jean-Paul Gaulthier’s flagship boutique.

6 rue Vivienne

Paris, 75002

Isabel Marant

If you want the cool girl French look just go here. It’s a bit pricey but if you can catch it during the Soldes, the sales that happen in France in winter and early summer, it’s a bargain.

47 rue de Saintonge

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 78 19 24

Le Bon Marché and La Grand Épicerie

Le Bon Marche, a department store founded in 1852, is my favorite of the large department stores in Paris. It has been in its current location since the 1920’s and the Art Deco interiors are timeless. La Grand Épicerie, Le Bon Marché’s gourmet food hall and market next door, is the closest thing you’ll find to an American grocery store in Paris.

24 rue de Sèvres

Paris, 75007

+33 01 44 39 80 00

Sunday is a great day to head to the Marché Aux Puces.
Sunday is a great day to head to the Marché Aux Puces.

Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen

The Paris flea market is really a neighborhood of different flea markets accessible from the Porte de Cligancourt metro stop. I like Marché Paul Bert, Marché Serpette and Village Vintage a grouping of designer vintage shops anchored by Habitat 1964. You will undoubtedly see beautiful things, vendors selling Louis Vuitton trunks, copper pots, and Empire period furnishings, but none of these items come cheap. It’s always fun to look and you can score more inexpensive items like vintage posters, costume jewelry and clothes. The markets are only open Saturday, Sunday and some on Monday.

Marché Paul Bert

85 rue des Rosiers

Saint-Ouen 93400

Marché Serpette

110 rue des Rosiers

Saint-Ouen 93400

Village Vintage

77-81 rue des Rosiers

Saint-Ouen, 93400

Merci

This artsy department store in the Marais makes shopping fun. The entryway theme changes frequently, there are three restaurants and everything from the kitchen goods to the clothing seems to have been chosen because of its simple design aesthetic.

Boulevard Beaumarchais

Paris, 75003

+33 01 42 77 00 33

Spree

Spree, a designer clothing shop that looks like an art gallery in Montmartre stocks all the best brands including Isabel Marant, Acne Studios and Carven.

16 rue la Vieuville

Paris, 75018

+33 01 42 23 41 40

The Broken Arm

This concept store has architectural pieces from up-and-coming French designers and a cute coffee shop and café.

12 rue Perrée

Paris, 75003

+33 01 44 61 53 60

6 thoughts on “My Paris Guide Part 1: Restaurants, Sights and Shopping

    1. Thanks Parisbreakfast. Discovering great restaurants and shops is what I love to do, but compiling this list did take me a while, nearly nine months. Thanks for your feedback and please pass it along to others who are visiting!

  1. Paris Breakfast did indeed pass your site on, to me among others I’m sure. I much appreciate your list of restaurants. I have been to many and look forward to trying some new ones based on your list. Also look forward to Pain des Amis au printemps. Thanks for the guidance.

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